Kent St. Viking

OK - it's now gone from egregious to obscene--the faithful updating, of course. Who better then to get things back online than the very pater nostra of this humble site, travel maven Kent St. John? Kent and I first met in the customs line at Keflavik Airport in Iceland this past May, the commencement of a week-long trip through southern Sweden and southern Finland together. While I have been saving my report of that journey for rainy day blogging, here now I must remember the great merriment shared with Kent, while also acknowledging that seeing his daily blogging in action was indeed the inspiration for Beth and I to start this site. Kent is a senior editor of the well-established Go Nomad site while also lending his considerable talents to the world of travel radio. As the photo shows, he is fond of living out his Viking fantasies while on the road. If you visit his site and see his post of today, you will also note the corpulent fellow next to Abba number five; while I cannot deny that is me, I can assure you that I am slimmer by far today.

Cave Dwellin'

Speaking of quarries--check out the spooky man-made Widow Jane caves of Rosendale, NY. This historic river-bend town in the lower Hudson River Valley, in the center of iron-rich hills, is riddled with the ruins of old mines and foundries, and locks from The Delaware & Hudson Canal Company. Home to a spectacular foot-accessible 150-foot abandoned 19th-century iron railroad trestle, Rosendale is also the former home of famed Rosendale cement, "the cement that built America." The natural cement limestone, mined in great quantities from chambers like one pictured (accessed from Route 213), was famously used in the pedestal of the Statue of Liberty, the Brooklyn Bridge, and the NY State Thruway. For five-star dining, go to chef John Novi's gastronomic wonder at the 1797 Depuy Canal House, in nearby High Falls (think twice about the downstairs Chefs on Fire, though--the service can be absent-minded).

Magical Quarry

Shockingly poor bloggery, we must confess, but sometimes feeding them babes soaks up the time. Anyhow, managed to sneak in a quickie Catskills getaway this past weekend. Based at the Pine Hill Arms, a cozy historic inn in the tiny town of Pine Hill, NY, we ventured on the unique Magical Quarry hike at nearby Sugarloaf Mountain. We love hikes--we love big payoffs on hikes even more, and this is one of the best. To reach the trailhead, take County Road 16 off Route 23A in Tannersville, NY, then follow Elka Park Road as it turns to dirt and then park just beyond Roaring Kill bridge. Follow the trail and then go left at the first trail junction. A couple of moderately easy miles up delivers you to the spiritual collection of chairs, thrones, tables and structures built by persons unknown from the remnants of an old bluestone quarry. The views are outstanding, and for an afternoon, anybody can be can king, queen--or in this case, prince of the Catskills. For cooling off, Pine Hill Lake at the foot of Belleayre Mountain off Route 28 is just a leap away.

Strawberry Fields Forever!

After relaxing at the Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery from our last posting, take Little York Road north for a driving expedition full of surprises. Winding through the foothills of Mt. Eve and Mt. Adam, look for the scale model of a church marking a peaceful Lutheran graveyard, and just beyond on the left, a roadside cemetery with stones from the 1800s.

Turn left at Mt. Eve Road and prepare to be transported into a veritable Eden--is it California? Spain? Italy? Welcome to the agricultural paradise known as the Black Dirt Region. A far-reaching flat plain rolling up into gentle hills, this was a glacial lake from 12,000 years ago. Then the waters receded, leaving up to 12 feet of jet-black organic decay. Reclaimed by Irish, Polish, German and Italian immigrants, these "drowned lands" now support a major onion crop, along with carrots, lettuce, corn, and as we happily discovered, pick-your-own strawberries.

Weekend Winos

Our cups ranneth over this weekend as we followed Summer Saturday country roads to visit two of our favorite wineries on the Shawangunk Wine Trail. If you're geared for a "Sideways"-style wine experience, save the airfare and gas up for an easy drive an hour or so north of NYC to Applewood Orchards and Winery just outside of Warwick, NY (do not miss a tasting with the lovely Christine)
and the Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery just outside of Florida, NY (if it's not busy, Keith is good company). The cider and wine at Applewood win hands down, and the food at Warwick is excellent; both feature live music, and are perfect for lazy day-long escapes. Wine-adventurers will also appreciate the unbridled ambition on display at Demarest Hill Winery where no form of fermentation is off limits. Have a grape time!

How to "Ruin" a Good Day

The New York Tri-State area is a treasure trove of ruined castles, hotels, mansions and other structures, and we love hunting them down. Look for our favorites over the next few days, starting with the Overlook Mountain House just outside of Woodstock, NY.
(thanks, Rob Yasinac!).
This was once the king of mountaintop hotels in the Catskills, the highest in fact, at 2,920 feet. Nearby is the 60 foot Overlook Mountain Fire Tower , one of the last five surviving towers in the region and offering supreme panoramic views of the area. It's a real adventure on a windy day, and watch out for up to 6 foot timber rattlesnakes on the ground. Click here for directions to the Mountain House and the Fire Tower.

Plum Times with the Vanderbilts and Clintons

From our base at the historic Plumbush Inn in Cold Spring, NY--and with a well-deserved hand to the staff and kitchen at Cathryn's Tuscan Grill , also in Cold Spring, we took Routes 9D and 9 upriver to the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site in Hyde Park. A short distance from FDR's home, this 54-room "cottage," completed in 1898, was one of 42 in the Vanderbilt family, used by Frederick and Louise Vanderbilt for spring and fall getaways (check out Louise's Marie Antoinette-inspired room). Louise, unable to unload the property in 1940, took FDR's advice and turned it over as a historic site. Well done Louise! To finish the weekend off, we chased winding country lanes to Clinton Vineyards in Clinton Corners, NY, member of the Dutchess (NY) County wine trail, favorite of Hillary Clinton and producer of fine Estate-bottled whites, dessert wines and champagnes since 1977.

Gilded Age Ghosts on the Hudson

OK, so we've missed blogging for a few days. No excuses, just rubbing shoulders with some Gilded Age ghosts up the Hudson River. First stop, the ruins of Bannerman Castle on Pollepel Island, centered in the Hudson between Storm King and Breakneck Mountains and the villages of Cold Spring and Beacon. Bannerman, born in Scotland, was a Brooklyn businessman who, needing storage for the arms and munitions he gathered from the Civil and Spanish-American Wars and elsewhere--and with no formal architectural training--built himself a nifty island arsenal in the late 1800s. Take a guided tour from Hudson River Adventures -- there's history lessons galore, and please support the Bannerman Castle Trust's ongoing mission to restore the arsenal and Bannerman's home on the island.

Life's A Beach!

Nothing heralds in summer more than that iconic first trip to the beach. With the unseasonable heat blast, Memorial Day weekend broke the seal for us and our 5 beachcombers. You'd never guess from the picture that we are literally 25 minutes from our home in Brooklyn! With miles upon miles of shoreline to choose from, none serve that quick beach fix better than the Rockaways, Breezy Point being our fave there...

Venturing south into New Jersey, we reap the rewards of the coastline there at Sandy Hook . The adventures unfold with miles of gorgeous wide open beaches, hiking trails, old army forts (that you can explore) and America's oldest lighthouse.

The Hudson River even serves as a "beach-front" option, when we venture an hour or so north to Little Stony Point just beyond the village of Cold Spring . A summer outing turned into a Lord of the Flies "castaway" afternoon as we trudged along railroad tracks and overgrown hiking trails, encountering a dark cave in the side of a modest mountain - all the while hearing the hum of speed boats on the Hudson River.

Raising kids in the city has its challenges, but with such incredible geography within reach - the balance is the sustenance - have car will travel!

Connecticut Connections I

It may be our third smallest state, but Connecticut has plenty to offer. Here's a quick tribute to some favorite stops on our recent Connecticut River Valley weekend. On the outskirts of the village of Chester , we loved the setting of the Sage American Bar & Grill (pictured). Housed in a former circa-1860 brush factory, the restaurant serves up firelight warmth and rustic charm along with pricey-but-worth-it cuisine, especially for meat lovers. Chester is also home to Simon's Marketplace (860.526.8984), perfect for a light lunch overlooking the stream that runs behind and underneath or for gourmet picnic food. And we were graciously accomodated for a lunch of escargot and white wine at the Gelston House 1853 Inn in East Haddam, CT (pictured below). Companion to the adjacent Goodspeed Opera House , this hotel--its 6 rooms currently occupied by its new owners--is a great stop for a meal on the veranda or in the dining room.

Buggin' Out

Whaddya mean, hand over the keys? Sad to say goodbye, Triple White , but we sure loved the ride, and you will too. This is a total lifestyle car, perfect for weekend getaways via back roads and parkways. Forget about the sonic boom when you hit the big city, too--it was Gotham in 3D, cruising down the West Side of Manhattan, showing off the goods in Brooklyn and hitting the beach in Coney Island.
Favorite stretches--the Connecticut coastline from Old Saybrook to Guilford, the Merritt Parkway from New Haven, CT to NYC, the Palisades Parkway between the George Washington and Tappan Zee bridges, and the Belt Parkway in Brooklyn, doing our Annie Hall cruise under that magnificent Verrazano Narrows Bridge. Driving the runways at Brooklyn's Floyd Bennett Field--NY's first municipal airport, from 1931, and temporary home of another icon, the Concorde--was also a blast. Next up from VW, coming soon--the EOS convertible--and we'll be checking out other cool autos, too.

To the Manor Reborn!

On the subject of mansions, the 196-room Glen Cove Mansion Hotel & Conference Center --built in 1910 as the country residence of Standard Oil executive John Pratt and his wife Ruth (her ghost now in residence)--is now one of Long Island's premier social and event destinations. The Long Island Film Festival was on while we there. Humphrey Bogart's son was attending, too, echoing his father, star of the original Sabrina (1954), which was filmed at this palatial 55-acre estate. Managed by premium brand Benchmark Hospitality , this Georgian country house and all its leisure amenities is the place to get your Gatsby on--our thanks to Benchmark's Ken Ellens and Glen Cove's Keith Battaglia for always delivering the royal experience!

The Lost Treasures of Long Island's Gold Coast

Attended a great wine dinner last night at the Glen Cove Mansion Hotel & Conference Center in Long Island, NY, featuring a rapturous presentation from author Monica Randall on the fabled Gatsby-era mansions and estates of Long Island's North Shore. After the crash of '29, most were abandoned and left to decay before being unceremoniously bulldozed in the 1960s. One such casualty, featured here, was Beacon Towers, a surreal Norman fantasy built by the Vanderbilts and thought to be F. Scott Fitzgerald's inspiration for Jay Gatsby's fictional mansion.

Yet, a young Monica and her sister were determined to preserve what they could, and with camera and notebook in hand, they climbed crumbling walls and slid down coal chutes to create a spellbinding record of America's aristocratic past, complete with murder and the occult. One mansion was paved with tombstones taken from the graves of small children in Europe; another, the scene of a shotgun killing in the 50s, had a driveway cobbled with stones from the site of Mary Queen of Scots' beheading.

They also salvaged a remarkable collection of gowns and other finery left abandoned in steamer trunks. The elegant and charming Monica played a flapper in the 1974 film version of the Great Gatsby, lived in F.W. Woolworth's haunted Winfield Hall, still scouts locations for movies, and is still a dedicated explorer and adventurer. In fact, she's off in search of Catskills' ruins today--a favorite haunt of ours, to be featured in later entries.

"Jaw-Droppingly Vegasified"

Like Brooklyn itself, Coney Island has a storied legacy of falling and rising. Now, the legendary beachfront amusement park is slated for an over-the-top, $1B-plus makeover, described in an amusingly titled piece from New York Magazine. Change is inevitable, of course, and these days, change is all about velocity. As the great broom of alteration and development sweeps away the past, it seems that the landscape's vintage, vanguard elements assume an even greater resonance. Let's hope that the landmark Cyclone rollercoaster will be preserved to keep taking people on thrill-screaming rides, just as the VW Bug endures as a symbol of peace, love and good times. Taking the color palette from the original late '70s Super Beetle convertible, the special edition Triple White, with a production run of only 3,000, is all about getting the past right and keeping the past intact.

Wine, Women and Wednesdays

That's the saucy "hump day" 1/2-price drink (for women) night at the Griswold Inn's Wine Bar. A bona fide hot spot, this impressively cosmopolitan lounge draws a sophisticated crowd from surrounding sleepy 'burbs and beyond. We found the last two available seats at the bar on a Saturday night, where our inviting--and quite pregnant--German bartender Ines and chatty, playful locals joined us for a terrific selection of "wine flights" and tasty samplings of micro-sized appetizers. We closed out our evening of great food, drink, atmosphere and jovial, stimulating conversation with an ultra-quiet moonlit walk to Essex's historic waterfront on the Connecticut River, where we dangled our feet off the end of the dock.

007 in St. Tropez?

Photoshop out the background buildings and this stone pier could be in the South of France, Corsica, Greece, Portugal...and that's the Triple White Bug fresh from a Spy Who Loved Me-style underwater adventure. Well, damn it, it's fun to pretend once in a while, isn't it? Actually, this is the charming waterfront in Madison, CT, yards from the Madison Beach Hotel on West Wharf Road. Originally built as a rooming house in the 1800's, this historic property, with 31 rooms and 4 suites (most with balconies) overlooking a small beach and the Long Island Sound, is just right for relaxing seaside getaways.

The Birdhouses of Essex, CT

You'll be hard pressed to find a quainter small town in the U.S. than Essex. There was violence here in 1814, when the Brits, naughty lot that they were and remain--snuck into the harbor and torched the American fleet. Today, though, there is only peace and gentility, complete with tree-lined streets, Fife and Drum parades, the lapping waters of the Connecticut River and classic Colonial homes. Even the birds live well in this former ship building village, founded in the mid-17th century--here are but a few of the avian abodes about town, and there is even a (bird) house of worship. Funny how many times "wings" was mentioned in the tiny prayer book we found inside.

Elementary, My Dear Watson!

In the great tradition of castles built out of pure love or passion--from the Taj Mahal in India to Boldt Castle on Heart Island in New York's Thousand Islands region--here is the hilltop quirk built almost a century ago in East Haddam, CT by actor and playwright William Hooker Gillette (1853-1937). His portrayal of Sherlock Holmes on Broadway at the turn of the twentieth century was considered the definitive interpretation of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's famed detective; today, his architectural fantasy, the crown of Gillette Castle State Park, is one of Connecticut's top tourist attractions.

The Welcome Wagen

What better way to open the travel buggin' than with a little tribute to our good friends at Volkswagen of America, who were kind enough to let us take the 2007 Triple White Beetle out for test spin. Beth took delivery of the car in Brooklyn, picked me up at JFK Airport upon my return from Scandinavia (details to follow in later posts), and then it was off to Connecticut for the start of a 10-day tri-state area driving adventure. From our base at the "Gris" in Essex, CT--the iconic Griswold Inn, in the hospitality game since 1776, and one of America's oldest, most treasured inns--it was an explorers' weekend in the Connecticut River Valley. First leg, a river ride on the Chester-Hadlyme Ferry, which made its first crossing in 1769 and is CT's second oldest continously operating ferry. Our destination--the eccentric Gillette Castle.